Last Updated on April 30, 2026 by Tavernier’s Travels
From the moment my feet had touched Edinburgh’s soil all those years ago, I’d felt a soul-deep connection with that small plot of earth. It had been many years since I had found myself wandering over the seemingly permanently damp paving stones of Princes Street, and I found both a lot and very little had changed.
The landscape around Princes Street – which had made me fall in love with the city many years before – had remained the same, with jagged volcanic rock on which Edinburgh Castle sits, almost always in sight, and Arthur’s Seat off in the distance. A few new shops had opened, and there was certainly more hustle and bustle, to the point that it was almost impossible to walk down the street, although the impending Hogmanay celebrations had undoubtedly led to a higher number of tourists around.
Partly owing to the large number of visitors in the city, the inevitable higher prices and difficulty of trying to find authentic, local places to experience how Scotland welcomed in the new year meant that Edinburgh was only a pit-stop on our way to Stirling, only 40 minutes away by train.
Although it was a tad too chaotic, on both our way to and from Stirling, we ventured to a part of Edinburgh we had yet to explore – the Royal Mile.
What is the Royal Mile?
The Royal Mile is the beating heart of Edinburgh’s historic Old Town. At either end of the long road – which is in fact just over a mile long – are the Palace of Holyroodhouse and Edinburgh Castle. Although it acts as one long stretch of road, the Royal Mile is actually made up of a series of streets, comprising Abbey Strand, the Canongate, the High Street, the Lawnmarket, Castlehill and Castle Esplanade. From Edinburgh Waverley, we walked past the historic Balmoral Hotel (where J.K. Rowling finished the final Harry Potter book) and crossed the George IV Bridge before turning onto the Royal Mile and starting the uphill walk.
Highlights of the Royal Mile
Almost as soon as you reach, you’ll see how the Royal Mile is the bustling centre of the city’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It also plays a part as being a major centre for the annual Edinburgh Fringe Festival in August and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, both of which bring large numbers of visitors. Generally, it’s buzzing, with plenty of shops, eateries (both chain and independent), and street performers; the vibe reminded me of London’s Covent Garden. Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time to spend there, but here’s what I’d recommend of the things I did get to enjoy.
Take in a Street Performance
Most prevalent during the Fringe Festival, when the Royal Mile is transformed by many street events, street performers continue to entertain crowds that gather on the historic Royal Mile even outside of August. These performers range from comedians to jugglers to fire breathers; or, in the case of the performance we watched, a combination of all three. You’ll mostly find performances taking place near St Giles’ Cathedral.
St Giles’ Cathedral
Standing on the High Street, St Giles’ Cathedral is almost 1000 years old and, as its age suggests, is rich in history. Founded in 1124 by King David I, the cathedral predates much of the Old Town. During the Scottish Reformation in the 16th century, it played a central role when John Knox took over as minister. You won’t find it difficult to notice the cathedral; it has a distinctive crown steeple and impressive architecture.
‘Close’, ‘Wynds’ and ‘Courts’
Edinburgh’s classic tenements make up much of the buildings on this stretch, with narrow passageways (known as ‘close’, ‘wynds’ and ‘courts’) – easy as they are to miss on the busiest road in Edinburgh’s Old Town – intermittently breaking the flow, and offering off the beaten paths to explore. These passageways are very easy to miss, especially if you get swept up by the other attractions on the Royal Mile, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled through the throngs of people.
If you do manage to, there are intermittent breaks in buildings, often in the guise of very small arches leading to alleyways. Some of these include Advocate’s Close, which is 500 years old and is popular with tourists for the view it offers. Another, Brodie’s Close, takes its name from Deacon Brodie, the very man who inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde’. Those familiar with the novel may recognise why; by day, Brodie was a respectable citizen, but by night, he became a thief.
The Writers’ Museum
This museum is one I really wish I had the opportunity to visit, but unfortunately, it was closed on the day I was there. It was just as well, as I didn’t feel like lugging my heavy backpack and suitcase up to Lady Stair’s Close to reach it. However, it’s certainly on my bucket list for my next visit to the city. The museum celebrates the lives of some of Scotland’s most prominent writers, such as Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns, and features objects highlighting Scotland’s literary history.
Edinburgh Castle
Last, but by no means least, is Edinburgh Castle. Sitting on volcanic rock and looming over the city below, the castle is ‘one of the oldest fortified places in Europe’, according to its website. One of the oldest surviving buildings on the site – and in Edinburgh – dates to 1093, when David I built St Margaret’s Chapel in honour of his mother. It’s said the site has been inhabited for far longer than that, although none of the buildings from this earlier period now exist. Unsurprisingly, being this old, it’s drowning in a wealth of history, having once been home to the kings and queens of Scotland, not least including Mary, Queen of Scots, and being the home of the Stone of Destiny. Prices start at £23.50 for adults, with concessions available to those who qualify.
Is the Royal Mile Worth Visiting if You’re Short on Time?
If, like us, you’re completely short of time, I would still suggest spending some time in this part of Edinburgh’s Old Town. Even without doing any of the tours or visiting the many museums on the Royal Mile, the atmosphere and (especially if you’re a fan of anything historical) architecture are worth it alone. If you have the chance, venture off the Royal Mile and head over to Victoria Street; the colourful buildings are a favourite of visitors and locals alike.
