Last Updated on August 7, 2026 by Tavernier’s Travels
After an overnight stay in the beautiful North Yorkshire countryside at the quaint Grinklebell Cottage, we drove into the seaside town of Saltburn-by-the-Sea.
Saltburn
Despite the North of England’s reputation for fairly grim summers, that June morning promised the start of a warm, balmy day. Although it was still early, we were lucky to find a parking space as families from the surrounding areas flocked to make the most of the sunshine.
Children were already splashing in the sea, venturing surprisingly far from the beach thanks to the shallow water, with some reaching almost halfway along the pier.
Aside from the delicious smell of fish and chips – and the ever-watchful seagulls waiting for the perfect opportunity to steal them – nothing says you’re at the seaside quite like the singing tunes coming from an amusement arcade. I hadn’t wandered through one for several years. It was easy to remember how quickly a plastic bowl of 2 pence coins could disappear in exchange for a toy that lost its novelty almost as soon as you’d won it.
While some kids were kept occupied by their winnings, others like us trickled through to reach the pier.
Stretching 380 metres into the sea, Saltburn Pier is the town’s standout landmark, offering panoramic views of the coastline. Completed in 1869, it is now the last remaining pier in Yorkshire.
Some visitors lined the railings hoping to catch crabs and other seafood, while others strolled its length simply to take in the scenery. Standing at the end, you’re remarkably far out at sea, rewarded with sweeping coastal views and the chance to watch the weather slowly rolling in across the horizon.
Another highlight – and one we were especially keen to experience – was the funicular. Like the pier, it is steeped in history, being the oldest funicular in the UK and the second oldest in the world. Unfortunately for us, it was undergoing maintenance and was closed to the public. When operating, the funicular still runs much as it did when it first opened in the 19th century.
Whitby
Not too far from Saltburn lies Whitby, a seaside town perhaps best known as the home of Whitby Abbey, whose ruins famously served as the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. However, beyond the Abbey, the gothic atmosphere continues. Amid the coastal scenery and Georgian maritime buildings, the cobblestoned streets add to the town’s historic charm. It seemed from the moment we drove in, every corner revealed another view worth admiring.
Whitby feels remarkably sprawling for a town. Perhaps it’s the numerous steep hills, winding cobblestoned lanes or simply the number of people who flock there, but it can feel almost endless. Coupled with the sun beating down that day and our morning exploring Saltburn, we didn’t manage to see as much as I’d hoped. I’d been to Whitby as a child many years ago, and although my memory is somewhat vague, I remember a certain charm to it that appealed to me even then. And what I did see on this trip was enough to make me fall in love with Whitby all over again.
The Streets
One of the most enjoyable things to do in Whitby is simply wander its streets. Around almost every corner, another lane reveals a hidden yard (or ‘ghauts’, as they’re known locally) down a peculiarly named alleyway, or a charming row of houses.
Then there are the rows of quirky, independent shops that make exploring the town all the more enjoyable.
Whitby Abbey
The town’s standout feature is undoubtedly Whitby Abbey. Perched high on the clifftop, the ruins seem to follow you wherever you go, dominating the skyline from almost every corner of the town. From its elevated position, the Abbey also offers sweeping views across the coastline.
Although the ruins that stand today date from the 13th century, the Abbey’s history stretches back much further. It was founded in 657 by King Oswy of Northumbria before the Norman Conquest saw further development. Following the English Reformation in the 16th century, religious life there came to an end and the Abbey gradually fell into disuse.
Of course, Whitby Abbey is best known for its connection to Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Between the Abbey and St. Mary’s Church are the famous 199 Steps, leading down into the Old Town – something I’ll attempt on my next visit.
Before heading back, we stopped at The Greedy Pig for pulled pork and apple sauce butties before I grabbed a lavender latte from Beckett’s to enjoy on the journey home.
Returning to Whitby after so many years reminded me exactly why I’d loved it on my first visit. From its winding streets to the Abbey watching over the town, it’s a place that stays with you long after you’ve left. Although we didn’t manage to see as much as I’d hoped, it only gave me another reason to come back!
